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Agra

Like moths to a flame, the Taj Mahal has drawn more than five million visitors to its magnificent marble walls, capturing the hearts and minds of all who lay eyes on it. Busy it may be, but the Taj is every bit as magical as pictures portray, and a tour will leave you speechless. Glinting snow white against a sapphire blue sky, the mausoleum dazzles as the world’s most mesmerising ode to love. When Emperor Shah Jahan’s wife died in childbirth, he is said to have gone grey almost overnight, building the Taj as an everlasting symbol of his devotion. A visit to Agra may focus largely on this UNESCO masterpiece, but consider lingering a little longer in this characterful city. For over half a century it glittered as the capital of the world’s richest empire, and history lovers could spend days hopping around its ancient sites, from Agra Fort and Akbar’s Mausoleum to the white marble tomb of Itmad-Ud-Daulah, nicknamed the Baby Taj.

Known romantically as the moonlight garden, Mehtab Bagh sits across the Yamuna River from the Taj Mahal. This quiet botanical paradise has one of the best views of the mausoleum. Go at sunset to watch the colours change on the marble minarets as the sun sinks below the horizon.

The Agra Bear Rescue Facility is a shining example of how wildlife centres should be run. This is the largest sloth bear rescue facility in the world, where more than 200 fluffy Baloos enjoy some well-deserved peace, away from the circuses that once forced them to perform party tricks on stage.

A perfectly preserved mausoleum to the greatest of Mughal kings, Akbar’s Tombs sits in more than 100-acres of flourishing gardens just six miles from the centre of the city. Sandstone minarets are strikingly inlaid with geometric tiles, while the tomb blends Hindu, Islamic, and Persian architectural styles.

Tomb of Akbar The Great in Uttar Pradesh, India

Master the art of Mughlai cuisine with a hands-on cooking class. This is an excellent way to immerse yourself in Indian culture, heading first to a market to source fresh vegetables, fish and spices before rustling up a storm with a renowned local chef.

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Thanjavur

A long and complex history defines the city of Thanjavur. Over the centuries it’s been home to some of India’s greatest ruling dynasties, including the Cholas, Nayaks, and the Hindu warrior caste of Maratha, known for their mastery of art. The result is a dizzying blend of cultural intrigues, from the maze-like palace to Saraswathi Mahal Library housing 6,000 ancient manuscripts. Today, Thanjavur has all the trappings of a modern Indian metropolis, complete with the kind of chaotic charm you’d expect, but the past is still present and everyday thousands flock to worship at the Cholas' astonishing Brihadishvara Temple. The city is an enclave of art connoisseurs, so over a devara of coffee at one of old school cafes in the bazaars, you might get an invite for a Bharatnatyam recital or quizzed on musical traditions. This is where Carnatic music was born, after all.

The awe-inspiring Brihadishwara Temple’s 66 metre tall vimana can be seen all over the city. Now a World Heritage Site, its priceless frescos, ornate gopurams, intricate shrines and thousands of people in pursuit of the divine are just a few reasons to visit.

Tanjore paintings use the ancient and highly skilled technique of inlaying gold film and gemstones on canvas. This art form originated in Thanjavur and the area remains a hub for masters of the craft. Spend an afternoon perusing galleries to get a glimpse of these masterpieces at their best, or take part in a workshop where you can try your hand at creating your own.

Stroll down almost any street in the city and you’ll likely come across stalls lined with terracotta dancing dolls. These colourful figurines represent different characters from local folklore, and they are crafted in such a way as to sway rhythmically on their base.

Art afficionados will find plenty to occupy themselves with in Thanjavur. Head to one of the city’s unassuming studios for a demonstration of bronze casting. This is the forgotten art of Cire Perdue, where Hindu icons are cast in wax moulds before finding homes in some of the area’s most illustrious temples.

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Pondicherry

Known affectionately as Pondy, this southern, sun-soaked town remained under French colonial rule until 1954 and the culture here has retained a distinctly francophone feel. Think elegant European-style buildings, cafes serving croissants and croque monsieurs and police sporting smart white uniforms complete with gendarme caps. Wander down its peaceful waterfront promenade at dusk to watch waves rolling in off the Arabian Sea, and candyfloss sellers whisking up the fluffy sweet treat from stalls along the beach. And while French cuisine plays a starring role here, creamy South Indian curries are another highlight, with a plethora of high-end restaurants to pick from. A short hop up the coast takes travellers to Chennai, the charismatic capital of Tamil Nadu and a treasure trove of cultural sites, including marshmallow-pink Vivekananda House, once used for meditation by India’s famous ‘wandering monk’.

During the cold war, cries for a new society, and a place away from politics, echoed around India. Enter Auroville, a spiritual settlement where people of all faiths, ethnicities and views live in harmony. The best way to experience it is by talking to its inhabitants, learning what life is like in this unique ashram.

Perched in a picture-perfect location looking out across the ocean, the Notre Dame des Anges is arguably Pondy’s most attractive church. Its baby pink exterior is complimented by two grand towers, while inside soft light is diffused through a series of stained-glass windows. This is the town’s only church to hold mass in French, English and Tamil, so visit on Sunday for a service.

Once known as the French Quarter, White Town remains Pondicherry’s most affluent area. This is old-world Europe with an Indian twist, where cobbled streets wind past sunshine yellow villas, heritage hotels and chic boutiques, but you’re never far away from a samosa stall or lassi seller.

Crystaline waters off Pondicherry’s coastline — along with abundant marine life — make the area an ideal diving destination. Putter out to sea before sinking beneath the waves to spot manta rays, sea snakes, angelfish and moray eels, as well as several shipwrecks.

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West Bengal

Butting up against Bangladesh’s western border and running from the Himalayan foothills to the mangroves of the Bay of Bengal, this state packs a serious punch. At its core lies Kolkata, India’s City of Joy and artistic capital, where bohemian millennials sip bullet-strong coffees in independent cafes and the Bengali elite spend their weekends in colonial-era clubs. No visit to the city would be complete without a visit to the Victoria Memorial, one of India's most telling remnants of the British Raj, before driving the ribbons of road north to Darjeeling. Here, in the shadow of Kangchenjunga and the world’s third highest mountain, grand estates sit atop tea-draped hills and hikes crisscross plantations producing some of the world’s finest brews. Meanwhile in the south of the state, the sultry, mangrove-lined waterways of the Sundarbans brim with wildlife, from cormorants and crocodiles to India’s largest concentration of tigers.

Described as the Coliseum of Cricket, catching a match at Kolkata’s world-famous Ranji Stadium is an experience not to be missed. The atmosphere in this 66,000-seat stadium is electric, so grab and cold beer and cheer on the teams and they attempt to bat their way to victory.

Affectionately known as the Toy Train, the tiny Darjeeling Himalayan Railway chugs its way up the mountains from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling. Take a window seat and watch the landscape unspool before you, with the jagged peaks of the Himalayas a hypnotising backdrop.

Formed by silt swept down from the Himalayas, the mangrove swamps and forested islets of the Sundarbans stretch forth for almost 4,000 square-miles. It’s a wild paradise best experienced by boat, tuning into nature’s rhythms and floating slowly past myriad wildlife.

In spring, rhododendrons carpet Darjeeling’s hillsides in exquisite shades of pinks and purples. Hike the Singalila trek to witness them in full bloom, following the ridge of the Singalila Range towards the snow-crowned summit of Kanchenjunga.

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Calcutta

From Arambol to Polem, India’s smallest state sweeps down the west coast in an almost uninterrupted swathe of white sand. Bathed in sunshine and backed by palms, the gods certainly smiled on Goa, one reason, perhaps, why you’ll find some of India’s warmest people here. Much like the Danes have hygee, Goan’s have their own outlook — sugesad, meaning simply ‘happiness through laid-back living.’ It’s a motto woven into the very fabric of the state, emanating from locals and rolling off the waves that gently lap its shores. Once an infamous hippie enclave, Goa has shaken off its reputation for cheap booze and beach parties. Smart new boutique hotels and a standout restaurant scene have transformed the area, so order a cocktail, look out across the ocean and let sugesad wash over you.

Almost a third of all Goans are Catholic, and Old Goa’s 17th century churches are the largest in Asia. Visit the stunning Se Cathedral before mooching around town, a UNESCO world heritage site where restored Portuguese villas sit in paintbox coloured rows, some housing artsy cafes, others independent galleries.

The chitars arrived in Goa several centuries ago and their artwork has flourished in the state ever since. From tiny warehouses in Cuncolim they craft wooden toys in rainbow shades. Drop by to browse their wares, watch them at work, or just to sit down for a cup of chai and a chat.

As spiritual as it is physical, yoga styles range from slow and meditative to more dynamic but always focus on connecting the breath and the body. From bite-size taster sessions to bespoke one-to-one programmes, Goa’s luxury retreats are excellent places to practice your tree pose, followed by a breakfast smoothie and a swim.

At the turn of the millennium, Goa wouldn’t have meant much to the international surfing community. Fast forwards two decades, however, this stretch of coast has become a byword for gentle, consistent waves, perfectly suited to rookies. Dozens of well-reviewed surf schools are training a new generation of board riders along Goa’s golden bays.

Picking flowers in an Indian flower market

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Goa

From Arambol to Polem, India’s smallest state sweeps down the west coast in an almost uninterrupted swathe of white sand. Bathed in sunshine and backed by palms, the gods certainly smiled on Goa, one reason, perhaps, why you’ll find some of India’s warmest people here. Much like the Danes have hygee, Goan’s have their own outlook — sugesad, meaning simply ‘happiness through laid-back living.’ It’s a motto woven into the very fabric of the state, emanating from locals and rolling off the waves that gently lap its shores. Once an infamous hippie enclave, Goa has shaken off its reputation for cheap booze and beach parties. Smart new boutique hotels and a standout restaurant scene have transformed the area, so order a cocktail, look out across the ocean and let sugesad wash over you.

Almost a third of all Goans are Catholic, and Old Goa’s 17th century churches are the largest in Asia. Visit the stunning Se Cathedral before mooching around town, a UNESCO world heritage site where restored Portuguese villas sit in paintbox coloured rows, some housing artsy cafes, others independent galleries.

The chitars arrived in Goa several centuries ago and their artwork has flourished in the state ever since. From tiny warehouses in Cuncolim they craft wooden toys in rainbow shades. Drop by to browse their wares, watch them at work, or just to sit down for a cup of chai and a chat.

As spiritual as it is physical, yoga styles range from slow and meditative to more dynamic but always focus on connecting the breath and the body. From bite-size taster sessions to bespoke one-to-one programmes, Goa’s luxury retreats are excellent places to practice your tree pose, followed by a breakfast smoothie and a swim.

At the turn of the millennium, Goa wouldn’t have meant much to the international surfing community. Fast forwards two decades, however, this stretch of coast has become a byword for gentle, consistent waves, perfectly suited to rookies. Dozens of well-reviewed surf schools are training a new generation of board riders along Goa’s golden bays.

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Karnataka

A compelling blend of hidden bays, seductive cities, national parks and a staggeringly beautiful array of ancient sites makes Karnataka a splendid introduction to southern India. Hampi has long captivated all who lay eyes on its collection of intricately sculpted stone ruins, rising from a landscape freckled with granite boulders and cut through by the Tungabhadra River. Spead over 15 miles, and once the capital of one of India’s greatest empires, the site is nothing short of spectacular. Wander through the echoing halls of centuries-old temples, lingering to learn the stories behind the carvings etched so perfectly in the stonework, before lying back in a coracle and letting the river punt you past shrines almost hidden among the rocks lining its shore. The tiny traveller’s enclave of Gokarna, meanwhile, is Goa without the crowds. Soak up the sun in empty coves, eat fish fresh from the ocean and retreat to a suite fit for Raj-era royalty.

Although much of Gokarna’s accommodation comes in the form of thatched bamboo huts hugging the coastline, if you know where to look, luxury awaits. Indian opulence abounds here, from suites complete with marble bathtubs and perfectly positioned antiques, to private beaches with boats ready to sail you into the sunset.

At the centre of the site, Virupaksha Temple stands as testament to the architectural brilliance of the Vijayanagara Empire and is one of Hampi’s most evocative monuments. Carvings depict scenes from Hindu mythology and today pilgrims still flock here to pay their respects to Lord Shiva. The Elephant Stables meanwhile, give a glimpse into a bygone era when war elephants still roamed across the empire.

Hampi’s otherworldly landscape is best admired from a tiny temple on top of Matanga Hill, where a young priest performs a puja at sunset and monkeys scamper around your feet, hopeful for bananas. The rusty hues of granite boulders, piled atop one another and shaped into sinuous forms by the elements, contrast charmingly with palm groves, banana plantations and paddy fields.

-After the Taj Mahal, Mysore Palace is the second most visited monument in India. Its lavish Indo-Saracenic interior is a kaleidoscope of stained glass and mirrors, further embellished by carved doors, mosaic floors and paintings depicting life during the Raj. Over the top it may be, but it’s also mesmerising, particularly at night when almost 100,000 bulbs set the palace aglow.

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Madhya Pradesh

To travel across Madhya Pradesh is to taste India’s untamed heartland. This unsung state sometimes flies under radars, to the benefit of travellers wanting to witness the country at its wildest. Here, the looming, pine-crested Satpura Range dissolves into Kanha’s grasslands to the east and the dense forests of Bandhavgarh to the north. There are 11 national parks in Madhya Pradesh, more than any other Indian state, and these pockets of wilderness are fiercely protected, their flora and fauna wonderfully diverse. This is Rudyard Kipling’s Jungle Book personified, where Bengal tigers stalk the shadows, sloth bears amble comically across your path and groups of grey langurs charge through the treetops, chanting their unruly chorus for all to hear.

The state’s diverse topography means each park has a totally different look and feel. In Kahna, the steep, rocky ridges of Bandhavgarh are replaced with open plains the colour of butter, where barasingha deer glance up startled from their breakfasts as you rumble past. Take a night safari to and spot civets, porcupines and pint-sized Bengal foxes.

For centuries, the Gond tribe has coexisted harmoniously with nature, harbouring an innate knowledge of the plants and animals with which they share their home. Visit a local village and sit down to a lunch of smoky aubergine chulha and creamy daal, listening to tales of life at the edge of the jungle.

Right in the middle of this mighty subcontinent, Madhya Pradesh was always a prime target for conquest, leaving a rich imprint on the region’s architecture. There are stories here to rival the romance of Rajasthan, from the glorious Gwalior Fort with its coned minarets to the Hindu temple of Khajuraho, carved with some of most provocative figures in India.

Dhoopgargh dominates Madhya Pradesh’s undulating landscapes. This is the highest peak in the Satpura Range and a hike to its summit will pass through dense forest and slopes of rippling grassland, punctuated by termite towers rising 6ft tall. From its peak, admire the state in all its glory, a vast, uninterrupted wilderness beneath skies as clear as glass.

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Ladakh

High in the Himalayas, Ladakh’s arid moonscapes are shrouded in mystery. In this silencing, mountain strewn land, snow dusts peaks so high they seem to pierce the sky, ancient monasteries perch precariously on rocky outcrops and red-robed monks sit serenely in golden halls, chanting sutras and sipping cups of butter tea. A Buddhist ex-kingdom, Ladakh feels more like a little slice of Tibet, marooned in the furthest reaches of Northern India and world’s away from the riotous streets of Rajasthan. All adventures start from the region’s capital, Leh, a beguiling city strung with prayer flags and full of cafes serving steaming bowls of noodle soup. From here, venture into the desert to track snow leopards stalking across silvery plains, watch golden eagles dance in thermal currents, and visit villages where you’ll be welcomed into the fold like family. The Land of High Passes will leave you longing to return.

There are more than 100 monasteries in the region, each one more enchanting than the last. Visit Thiksey at dawn to watch monks blow into Tibetan horns twice their height, sending mournful tones reverberating through the valley and heralding a new day. Alchi is famous for its perfectly preserved Buddhist murals, while huge Hemis has two cavernous prayer halls, a picture-perfect courtyard and a museum showcasing ancient religious relics.

At 17,500ft, the Khardung La Pass is the highest road on the planet, the same altitude as Everest basecamp and a place where mountains stretch out before you as far as the eye can see. Drive this winding road to see colours shift from desert orange to the silver-white of granite outcrops, and to witness vast glaciers carving their path through the peaks. These landscapes appear to have been plucked straight from the pages of a fairytale.

Homestays are one of the best ways to meet Ladakh’s gregarious, warmhearted locals. Sit down to suppers of momos (dumplings) and hearty stews and listen to tales of village life, before rising early to help with the daily milking. Most homes own a cow or three, and your morning’s work will be rewarded with a strong mug of Indian coffee.

A few hundred snow leopards prowl these plateaus, making the region a veritable haven for the species. You’ll need some luck on your side, but keep eyes peeled on a hike through Ladakh’s lunar landscapes and you’ll likely spot its lithe, muscular body and pale pelage, clouded by dark rosettes. Look out, too, for marmots playing hide and seek among rocks near riverbanks and herds of wild horses cantering care-free across the plains.

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Kerala

Slow down to soak up the colours of Kerala. A tropical paradise running for almost 400 miles down India’s west coast, the palette here shifts from lime to emerald, hugged by golden beaches and the cerulean blue waves of the Arabian Sea beyond. For many, this is India at its most serene, a quiet stretch of swaying palms, thick jungle and sprawling tea plantations. And then there are the backwaters. This languid network of waterways teems with tropical birds and the rhythms of local life, and boat trips will reveal grey-headed fish eagles swooping for prey, and people busy at work in rice paddies lining the shore. The state’s cities, too, are as fascinating as they are diverse from compact, culturally complex Trivandrum to the explorer’s enclave of Kochi.

There’s no better way to see the backwaters than from the deck of traditional houseboat. Iced tea in hand, sit back and soak up the views as you sail past sleepy villages, keeping eyes peeled for kingfishers, cormorants and kites. When dusk falls, flying foxes cast enormous, slightly eerie silhouettes across the water, stained red under the setting Indian sun.

Perched on an estuary, the small city of Kochi is postcard pretty with a glorious patchwork of cultures to boot. Synagogues sit beside mosques among rows crumbling colonial relics, while Chinese finishing nets line the shore. The Portuguese, Dutch and British all ruled here, and the result is a beautifully intriguing mix of architectural styles.

Kerala’s abundant coconuts and wealth of spices give the region a reputation for one of India’s most exciting cuisines. Dishes here are fragranced with cumin, cardamom and cloves, cooked in creamy coconut milk and using seafood fresh from the ocean. Opt for a comforting bowl of prawn curry, a South Indian classic with ginger, ground coriander and just a hint of chilli.

The ancient art of Kathakali dates back more than 500-years. An enigmatic blend of ballet, pantomime and opera, these dance performances truly encapsulate the soul of the state, telling tales of ancient Indian epics. The costumes are colourful, the music dark and moving, while every eyebrow raise, every lip twitch, is imbued with layers of meaning.

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Delhi

Few cities on earth have the chaotic, yet utterly captivating energy of Delhi. This is a city that pulses with life, and every corner throws up something new. Adventure into the hubbub to witness cows wandering serenely down highways, tuk-tuks weaving their way through traffic, and throngs of colourfully clad locals perusing fruit and vegetables piled high on wooden carts in market squares across the city. And beyond the fascinating glimpse into daily life here, history abounds, from the 14-th century Red Ford to Humayun’s Tomb, which seems to float above its beautiful garden surrounds and is rumoured to have inspired the Taj Mahal. Fabled fine-dining restaurants, awe-inspiring architecture and a buzzing nightlife are just a few more reasons to explore India’s cacophonous capital.

First built as a royal residence and exuding Rajasthani old-world charm, Bikaner House is an iconic Delhi institution. Come for the architecture, but stay for the art; this cultural hub showcases stand-out exhibits from some of India’s most esteemed artists, as well as an ever evolving programme of events.

Wile away an afternoon at Khan Market, a lively square full of excellent jewellers, upscale boutiques and tasteful bars perfect for an afternoon cocktail break. Shopping opportunities are endless; for textiles Anokhi has a fun display of rainbow-coloured fabrics, while Dilli Haat has everything from pashminas to paintings.

There’s nothing quite like darting around the streets of Old Delhi in a tuk-tuk. This is the real India, home to a charmingly chaotic tangle of people, cars and cows, as well as some cultural gems like the Jama Masjid Mosque, the largest in the capital.

Delhi is full of lovely little nooks to slow down and take a breather. The gardens surrounding Humayun’s Tomb are spectacular, so admire the Mughal masterpiece from a shady bench in the grounds or take a stroll through the Garden of the Five Senses to see tropical flowers blooming sapphire blue and salmon pink.

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Rajasthan

The jewel in India’s crown, Rajasthan is a place of honey-hued landscapes stretching forth beneath a blood-red sun and bursting with ancient history. This is the land of maharajas, where palaces rise majestically above rooftops, temples tell stories of religious ascetics, and leopards pad silently through swaying grasslands. From the romantic, incense-scented markets of Jaipur and the towering desert fortress of Jaisalmer to tiny rural villages where life has walked to the same beat for centuries, Rajasthan enchants. Meet local artisans, taste food spiced with tradition and marvel at the colours, sounds and smells that will envelop you on a journey through the country’s largest state. This is India at its most mesmerising.

A balloon ride over Jaipur will reveal the Pink City in all its glory. Gaze down on the crenelated, terracotta walls of the Old Town and see the City Palace’s maze of fountain-filled courtyards, before floating over Amber Fort, a sprawling complex of marble buildings tumbling down the hillside just outside the city.

Udaipur’s Lake Pichola stretches out from the city towards the purple ridges of the Aravali Hills. Set off on a private boat ride to see the palace reflecting perfectly off its glassy surface, admire the city’s pretty streets of low-slung, white-washed houses and watch children squeal as they swim from the steps of a perfectly restored haveli at the water’s edge.

Weave through the Rajasthani wilderness on horseback, where leopards roam and Rabari herders urge flocks of goats 500-strong onwards through the dusty plains. Billion-year-old granite boulders pepper the landscape as if placed there by the gods, and crumbling temples materialise magically around every bend.

Tour the tiny, winding streets of Jaisalmer for a taste of life in one of the world’s few living forts. This sandstone masterpiece rises from the desert like a mirage, home to hawkers selling saris and spices, and Jain priests ready to share words of wisdom with travellers passing through. Each of the seven temples here is a silencing work of art; ornately carved and glowing gold in the sunlight.

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